Summer
Furano: A Summer Sojourn in Hokkaido’s Heartland
It’s difficult to talk about Japan without conjuring images of gleaming metropolises, neon-lit streets, or perhaps the disciplined serenity of a Zen garden. But to visit Furano in summer is to encounter a different Japan altogether. Nestled in central Hokkaido, the country’s northernmost island, Furano is a place where life unfolds at a distinctly more relaxed pace. It is known primarily for its rolling fields of lavender and its pastoral charm, but there’s far more to this modest town than first meets the eye.
Hokkaido, in summer, is a retreat from the sticky swelter of Japan’s mainland. While Tokyo wilts under oppressive humidity, Furano boasts a balmy, mild climate. Here, summer is not an assault of heat but a celebration of color, fragrance, and open spaces. The average temperature in Furano during July and August hovers between a comfortable 18 to 28°C (64 to 82°F), making it an ideal getaway for those looking to escape the intense summer heat. However, the evenings can be cool, so it’s wise to pack light, breathable clothing for the day, along with a light jacket or sweater for cooler nights. Furano’s claim to fame is undoubtedly its lavender fields, which carpet the landscape in brilliant purples. But scratch beneath the surface, and you’ll find that this humble town offers a mosaic of attractions that deserve to be savored with slow deliberation.
A Sea of Lavender: Farm Tomita
If you’re thinking of Furano, you’re thinking of lavender. More specifically, you’re thinking of Farm Tomita, the crown jewel of Furano’s lavender industry. This is where the region’s romance with lavender began in the early 1900s, thanks to pioneers who saw Hokkaido as Japan’s answer to the lavender fields of Provence. Today, it’s the stuff of postcard perfection: endless rows of lavender stretching out against a backdrop of rolling hills and distant mountains. The sight of it alone is enough to take your breath away.
But it’s not just the visuals that charm. There’s something about the scent of lavender that soothes your senses, as though Furano itself were encouraging you to relax. While you’re here, it would be almost criminal not to sample the farm’s lavender-infused soft-serve ice cream. Somehow, it manages to be both refreshing and oddly floral, as though you’re eating a spoonful of summer itself.
Farm Tomita is more than just a lavender paradise. The farm’s “Irodori Field” is a palette of color where various flowers—poppies, marigolds, and salvias—burst into bloom, ensuring that summer in Furano is as much about vibrant hues as it is about purple. For those eager to take home a little piece of Furano, Farm Tomita’s store offers every lavender-scented product imaginable, from soaps and oils to lavender pillows that promise to lull you into the deepest sleep you’ve ever had.
Flower Fields Beyond Lavender: Shikisai no Oka
Not far from Farm Tomita, Shikisai no Oka (“Hill of Four Seasons”) offers an equally mesmerizing floral spectacle. Here, flowers stretch across 15 hectares of rolling hills, creating a multicolored landscape that shifts with the seasons. While lavender gets top billing in Furano, the other blooms—ranging from lupines to sunflowers—hold their own, making Shikisai no Oka a technicolor dreamscape for visitors. There’s a childlike joy to be found in simply wandering these fields, but for the more adventurous, you can rent buggies to zip around the grounds, adding a touch of whimsy to your floral escapade.
Nature Beyond the Fields: The Blue Pond and Ningle Terrace
While Furano’s floral fame is well deserved, the town is also a gateway to some of Hokkaido’s natural wonders. A short drive away from Furano lies Aoiike, or the Blue Pond of Biei. The pond gets its name from its ethereal, almost unnatural shade of blue, caused by the interplay of minerals suspended in the water and the surrounding white birch trees that frame its shores. Standing by the pond, with its still, almost otherworldly surface, feels like being inside a watercolor painting. In a country that often dazzles with its hypermodernity, Aoiike is a reminder of nature’s quieter, more reflective wonders.
If you’re looking for a blend of nature and craftsmanship, Ningle Terrace, a short drive from the center of Furano, offers just that. This charming collection of log cabins sits nestled in a forested area and serves as home to local artisans who sell handcrafted goods, from pottery to glasswork to woodcarvings. The rustic charm of Ningle Terrace is like stepping into a fairytale village where time slows down, and every object seems imbued with a sense of craftsmanship and care. Visit in the early evening when the pathways are lit with soft, warm lights, and the whole place feels like something out of a Miyazaki film.
Savoring Furano: Wine, Cheese, and Melons
It would be remiss to write about Furano without mentioning its gastronomic delights, which often surprise those expecting little more than rural cuisine. Furano Wine, produced in the hills surrounding the town, is the pride of the region. Hokkaido’s cool climate provides ideal growing conditions for a range of grape varieties, and Furano’s local wines have been gaining a reputation for their crisp, refreshing qualities. A visit to the Furano Winery offers not only tastings but also stunning views of the surrounding countryside. While Japan may not be the first place that comes to mind for wine, you’ll leave Furano with a newfound respect for its vinicultural offerings.
And let’s not forget Furano’s cheese. At the Furano Cheese Factory, you can observe the cheese-making process firsthand and sample a variety of unique products, including—wait for it—lavender-flavored cheese. It sounds odd, but like much in Furano, it works in ways you wouldn’t expect. The factory also offers cheese-making workshops, perfect for those looking to immerse themselves in the local flavors.
Summer in Furano also means one thing: melons. Furano is famed for its succulent melons, which are so sweet and juicy that they are considered a luxury gift in Japan.
Hot Air Balloons and Rafting: The Adventurous Side of Furano
For all its floral beauty and quiet rural charm, Furano has its wild side, too. If you feel like getting a bird’s-eye view of those seemingly endless fields of flowers, Furano offers hot air balloon rides that will elevate your summer experience—quite literally. Floating serenely above the town, with the distant mountains standing sentinel on the horizon, you’ll feel as though you’re drifting over a quilt stitched together with every imaginable shade of green, yellow, and purple.
If that’s not quite enough adrenaline, Furano’s rivers offer excellent opportunities for rafting. The Sorachi River, which runs through the region, offers a mixture of calm sections perfect for beginners and rougher rapids that will get your heart racing. Whether you’re meandering down a gentle stretch of water or careening through a frothing torrent, rafting in Furano is a reminder that Hokkaido’s beauty isn’t confined to its landscapes.
A Celebration of the Belly Button: Furano’s Hokkai Heso Festival
No summer visit to Furano would be complete without witnessing the town’s unique Hokkai Heso Festival—better known as the Furano Bellybutton Festival. Held annually in late July, this lively event celebrates Furano’s status as the geographical “belly button” of Hokkaido. Locals don elaborate costumes, painting faces on their stomachs, and dance through the streets in a bizarre yet cheerful parade. The festival originated in 1969 as a way to foster community spirit, and today it has evolved into a wonderfully quirky spectacle, drawing both locals and tourists alike. It’s a vibrant, slightly absurd celebration of Furano’s playful side, and it’s impossible to watch without a smile creeping across your face.
A Farewell to Furano: Finding Beauty in the Unexpected
Furano is the kind of place that sneaks up on you. At first glance, it’s a simple rural town with a penchant for flowers. But spend just a few days here, and you’ll find a rich tapestry of experiences, from the calming beauty of its lavender fields to the surprising depth of its culinary offerings. It’s a place where nature and culture intermingle effortlessly, where every lavender-scented breeze carries a reminder that there’s beauty in simplicity.
Furano’s greatest charm lies in its quiet confidence. It doesn’t shout for attention but instead waits patiently for visitors to discover it. So, while Japan’s great cities may dazzle with their bright lights and boundless energy, Furano whispers an invitation: to slow down.