Oshokuji to Goenkai no Mise Kumagera
Oshokuji to Goenkai no Mise “Kumagera”
Oshokuji to Goenkai no Mise Kumagera, known as Kumagera, isn’t just a place to eat—it’s a portal to another time and way of life. Opened in December 1992, it set out with an audacious goal: to serve up the very soul of the surrounding countryside. And oh, how it succeeds. From the moment you step inside, you’re greeted by a restaurant that feels less like a commercial enterprise and more like a living museum of local history and nature.
Here, the stones that once vexed farmers as they tried to coax crops from the earth now serve a far more cooperative purpose, adorning the walls like proud relics. But they’re in good company. The restaurant is a collage of repurposed materials—a treasure trove of rustic charm. The beams? Salvaged from an old barn in the nearby Onuma district. The trees? Pulled from local rivers, with gnarled trunks and knotted branches that seem to tell stories of their own. Even the grapevines, sturdy survivors from the Rokugo mountains, have found a second life here. Every detail speaks to the land’s past, from the stone tables to the curtains dyed with local onions. And the hop vines? They’ve made themselves right at home, creeping across the ceiling as if the line between the outdoors and indoors was never there in the first place.
Sake and the Pursuit of Perfection
If the rustic decor gives you a sense of history, Kumagera’s 19-tsubo sake cellar (a cozy 62.7 square meters, for those unfamiliar with tsubo) offers a window into the mind of the owner, Takeshi Morimoto. His passion for sake borders on the fanatical, but in the best possible way. Morimoto didn’t just dabble in sake appreciation—he dove in headfirst. In the mid-1980s, he embarked on an epic journey, traversing Japan in search of the perfect sip, visiting breweries from north to south, sampling over 800 varieties in just three years. That’s a lot of rice wine.
What emerged from that journey is Kumagera’s very own ginjo-style sake—a carefully crafted brew that’s both rich and approachable. It’s strong enough to savor in small sips but light enough to enjoy throughout an entire bottle, should you be so inclined. And at 700 yen a glass, it’s a bargain worth every yen, whether you’re a sake connoisseur or a curious newcomer. Morimoto refers to it as “Kumagera Sake World,” and with good reason—this isn’t just a drink; it’s part of the experience.
What’s Cooking
Kumagera’s menu is far from an afterthought. Every dish is a love letter to the region, featuring local ingredients prepared with a reverence for tradition and flavor. This isn’t the place to come for generic fare; it’s where you go to truly taste the region. Locals and visitors alike come here for an authentic bite of the area’s culinary identity, which has helped cement Kumagera’s reputation as a must-visit for anyone with an appetite for local food with a side of history.
While the world outside seems ever more obsessed with replicating the same mass-produced dining experiences, Kumagera remains stubbornly unique—a place where the past and the present, the rugged and the refined, blend seamlessly together. Eating here is more than just a meal; it’s a delicious dive into the history and heart of the area.
Making a Reservation: It’s an Art Form
Now, if you’re hoping to book a table, you’ll need to plan ahead. Reservations must be made via email by 9:00 PM the day before. And while it’s typically straightforward, things get a bit tricky during the summer tourist season—mid-June to late August—and around the New Year’s holidays when reservations are off the table. So, if you’re thinking of visiting during these busy times, better to rethink your plans or book early.
Email your requests to kumagera.furano@outlook.com (in thoroughly checked Japanese, of course), and don’t forget: Wednesday is their day of rest. On other days, the doors are open from 11:30 AM to 10:00 PM, with last orders taken at 9:00 PM. It’s worth arriving a bit earlier to fully savor the experience without feeling rushed. Happy dining!