Spring
A Stroll Through Spring in Furano: A Love Letter to Hokkaido’s Hidden Gem
Visiting Furano in spring is a bit like discovering a secret garden in your grandmother’s backyard—a place you were never quite sure existed, but once found, feels like the perfect combination of surprise and familiarity. It’s a region nestled in the heart of Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, and famous for its endless flower fields, ethereal blue ponds, and the kind of calm that makes you wonder if time is somehow slowing down just for you.
Golden Week: Spring’s Grand Entrance
To truly appreciate Furano in the spring, you must first endure a winter that can only be described as relentless. The snow here doesn’t just fall; it dominates, piling up in thick layers until it practically redefines the landscape. Yet, come Golden Week—the Japanese holiday stretch in late April and early May—the world begins to thaw, and with it, Furano reveals its springtime splendor.
Now, if you’re like me, Golden Week presents an opportunity to take stock of your woolly life decisions. Should you have left the house in lighter clothing? Absolutely not. Yes, it’s true that daytime temperatures hover around a reasonably optimistic 19°C (66°F), but the moment the sun starts its descent, the temperature plummets to around 7°C (44°F), and you’re left clutching your jacket like a child who’s lost their balloon at a carnival. It’s the kind of cold that reminds you that you’re still, in fact, in Hokkaido—home to the kind of winter that doesn’t give up easily.
The Great Flower Show
By May, the Furano Basin transforms into what can only be described as nature’s color palette on display. The lavender fields—those iconic swathes of purple that most people associate with Furano—are still a few months away from their starring role, but the interim spring flowers put on a pretty convincing opening act. Tulips, lupines, and the oddly endearing Adonis ramosa pop up, creating a sea of yellows, reds, and pinks that stretch across the horizon like a never-ending patchwork quilt.
And then there’s the Ezo Murasaki-Tsutsuji (Rhododendron dauricum), the official flower of Furano. If you, like many before you, have been lulled into thinking that lavender holds this esteemed title, I regret to inform you that you’ve been living a lavender lie. Furano’s official flower only blooms between May and June, bursting forth with a shade of pink so delicate it feels like springtime whispered into existence.
One of the best places to catch this floral extravaganza is Flower Land Kamifurano, a place so picturesque you’ll find yourself wondering if it was designed by a committee of Instagram influencers. This flower haven covers 150,000 square meters, and depending on when you visit, you might get to sample seasonal produce—asparagus in the spring, for example, plucked straight from the earth and boiled into a healthy snack that is so much more than the limp spears you’ve been avoiding all your life.
If you prefer your flowers with a side of history, Farm Tomita in Nakafurano is an essential stop. This is Hokkaido’s most famous lavender farm, drawing over a million visitors each year. But spring at Farm Tomita offers a different charm. Its iconic “Field of Colors”, with a mix of flowers like poppies, baby’s breath, and marigolds, creates a vibrant contrast against the green Furano hills. The Traditional Lavender Field, while not yet in full bloom, still carries the soft fragrance of the early varieties, hinting at the summer spectacle to come.
Farm Tomita is also known for its vast array of lavender products, from lavender-infused soaps to their iconic lavender ice cream, which, I assure you, is much better than it sounds. And if you’re feeling adventurous, the farm offers cycling tours around its fields, letting you pedal through Furano’s famous landscapes with the wind in your hair.
Then there is Shikisai-no-oka, a sprawling hilltop garden in nearby Biei. Known for its rainbow-colored flower fields, Shikisai-no-oka is a place where you could easily spend hours walking through orderly rows of blooming flowers. The garden is expansive, with flower fields that change in tone and hue as spring turns to summer. Here, tulips, pansies, and early-blooming lavenders take center stage. It’s a scene so dazzling that you half expect someone to hand you a paintbrush and ask you to finish the masterpiece.
Cherry Blossoms & The View from Asahigaoka Park
Cherry blossoms, or sakura, hold a special place in the heart of Japan, and Furano is no exception. Unlike the fleeting displays you might find in Tokyo or Kyoto, Furano’s cherry blossoms, which bloom during Golden Week, feel less like a spectacle and more like a quiet, intimate conversation with nature. Asahigaoka Park is the crown jewel of Furano’s cherry blossom experience, boasting some 3,000 Ezo-yamazakura trees. From the park, you get sweeping views of the Sorachi River, the Furano Basin, and the majestic Daisetsuzan Mountain Range in the background—a view so vast and detailed it feels as though nature decided to show off a little.
Of course, cherry blossom viewing—or hanami as it’s locally known—is not just about the flowers. It’s also about eating copious amounts of food, preferably on a blanket, while pretending to understand the poetry of fleeting beauty. If there’s a more delightful way to spend an afternoon, I haven’t found it.
The Blue Pond: Mother Nature’s Photoshop Job
A short jaunt from Furano, you’ll find the Blue Pond of Biei, a place that has become a pilgrimage site for both photographers and nature lovers alike. Now, you might be wondering, why blue? The pond’s eerie, electric hue is the result of aluminum particles in the water scattering sunlight—like nature’s version of a high-tech filter. The best time to visit is early morning, when the air is still and the pond’s surface resembles a sheet of sapphire glass. On a calm day, the effect is downright otherworldly. The entire scene looks like it was photoshopped into existence, and if someone told you that it was actually designed by a team of graphic artists working for Apple, you’d probably believe them. After all, the pond did gain international fame when it was featured as a wallpaper image for Mac computers.
Furano Jam Garden: Sweetness Without a Drop of Water
No visit to Furano is complete without a trip to the Furano Jam Garden, home to 38 varieties of jam, all made without using a single drop of water. This magical place is where fruit meets alchemy, and the result is a variety of flavors that range from haskap (blue honeysuckle) to the more traditional raspberry and strawberry jams. If you’re traveling with children—or even if you’re not—the Anpanman Shop is a whimsical addition, featuring Japan’s beloved cartoon character and offering jam-making workshops where you can channel your inner chef.
The Great Outdoors: Adventures and Misadventures
For the more adventurous among us, Furano’s springtime offerings go beyond flowers and food. The snow may be melting, but the rivers are swelling, making it the perfect time for rafting on the Sorachi River. This isn’t your typical gentle paddle—spring rafting here means navigating fast-flowing waters fed by melting snow from the Daisetsuzan Mountain Range. It’s an exhilarating experience, where the river’s energy matches the adrenaline pumping through your veins.
If you prefer to stay on solid ground (and who could blame you?), horseback riding through Furano’s rolling hills offers a peaceful way to take in the scenery. Beginners are more than welcome, and the experience feels as though you’re stepping into a pastoral postcard—minus the threat of tripping over a picnic basket.
For those who like their adventure a bit higher up, paragliding offers a unique bird’s-eye view of the Furano Basin. Imagine soaring through the sky, the wind in your face, while below you stretches a patchwork of greens, yellows, and pinks—Furano’s landscape sprawling out in every direction like a watercolor painting come to life.
Spring’s Finale: A Time to Reflect
There’s something special about Furano in the spring—a place where the snow gives way to flowers, and the cold is slowly replaced by the warmth of sunshine. The transition from winter to spring in Furano is not abrupt but gradual, like watching an artist slowly add color to a black-and-white canvas. One moment you’re trudging through the last remnants of snow, and the next you’re surrounded by tulips and cherry blossoms, the air thick with the scent of budding life.
So, pack your layers, bring your camera, and leave your expectations at home. Furano in the spring is not just a destination; it’s an experience that stays with you long after you’ve left. Whether you’re rafting down the Sorachi River or simply strolling through fields of flowers, Furano offers a quiet reminder that sometimes, the best places are the ones that surprise you the most.